Rod was the first to the finish line...dipping his front tire into Puget Sound ... an inland sea of the Pacific Ocean, at Mukilteo Washington

CONCLUDING REMARKS :

Reflections ... It has now been 2 weeks since our completion. What a ride! Our friends/family congratulate us on a remarkable achievement ... but honestly, it still doesn't seem like a big deal.

Everyday we had plenty of food and fluids. We always had a place to sleep. No accidents, no breakdowns (except Sharon's smashed bike). No lingering aches/hurts. Every morning, except 1, we woke up to blue skies. We only got rained on 4 days out of the 51 we rode. We didn't lose anything/leave anything behind, except the necklace charm my son, Colin, gave me from his trip to New Zealand.

I never got physically exhausted. Tired, sure, but I could have always gone further if necessary without calling on all my reserves.

Disappointments for me, was an estrangement from my brother Rod. Surprising, since I can't recall every exchanging a harsh word with him, even back into my youth. Also, we didn't smell the roses enough along the way. We had a schedule to keep our pace going. Although, frankly, there weren't many locations along our route I would've wanted to dwell in ... until we got out west.

Some highlights for me:
overnights ... in Troutville, VA, being met by Cecil along the road into town; in the firestation in Pilot's Knob, MO; staying in Charlie's backyard in Canon City, CO; Gillian, the prison guard who welcomes cyclists in Ordway, CO; the Lee's in Radford, VA who also welcome cyclists; on the water in Harrison, Lake Coeur d Alene ... getting blasted by sprinklers in the middle of the night in Lander, WY; Guffey, CO in the hogsbarn

places ... Virginia Tech campus and aftermath of tragic shootings there; Tetons; bike trail leading into Spokane, along the Spokane River; Hamilton, MT and aunt/uncles house; Tetons; Frisco, CO; WalMarts along the way (air conditioning, lots of grocery selections and good prices); crossing Stevens Pass, WA and seeing my first cedar tree and inhaling cool, Pacific Air, even with hotter than normal temperatures.

people ... Cecil, deputy mayor of Troutville, VA; Chuck, official greeter into Pittsburg, KS; Virgil, retired Boeing/Seattleite in Frisco, CO; Bill, proprietor of Guffey; Dave & Nick our riding companions for 10 days; Tony, our riding companion for several days from KY to the Tetons off and on; Jeff and Mary, Seattleites we met in KY; all the farmers we chatted with at breakfast and at mini-mart lunchstops   

Birds along the way... there was one species of bird I was expecting to see in every state ... the RedWing Blackbird. But oddly, I did not spot one in Idaho or WA ... even though we cycled thru many, many miles of wetlands on Idaho trails. I had seen several in every state until my last two.  I wish I could remember the distinctive bird sounds/calls that serenaded me thru those thousands of miles of pedalling , but I can't.  

Farmers.  What an interesting comparison of farms/crops/bales of hay/methods of irrigation/lack of irrigation, weather concerns. The farmers in VA and KY were moaning since they were not getting sufficient rain to plant/grow their crops .. mostly corn and tobacco. They didn't rely on irrigation. Farmers in KA were struggling with too much rain. Everything was rotting. The area we traveled thru also did not use irrigation. As we moved into the west, they farms became ranches, stretching to the horizon. Irrigation was utilized. In Washington state, the best combinations of all. Large fields, rolling hills, healthy crops, irrigation ... prosperous, it seems.

Respect for my Life Partner.  As a threesome, we had some challenges fairly early on. Not knowing how our relationships and roles would be defined. I treated Sharon more as a riding buddy, not a romantic partner. We each had to pedal our own load, service our equipment, do our share in camp, pay our own way, rest when we needed, resupply when we needed.  Once we established this equality, after some significant distress in KY, our relationship became less strained. As we continued on together, we worked well together.

There were times when we were competitive. To prove she was as strong a rider as me, Sharon would  occasionally pull up behind me and keep pace with me, even when I felt pretty strong. She could hang with me for a few miles, then eventually I could pull away ... typically sprinting into a town at the end of the day with a comfortable lead.  Sharon would  pedal at her own pace, which was not much slower than mine. I always got to the top of the hill first, but she wouldn't be too far behind. 

She was a real trooper, sleeping on the ground, doing without showers/laundry, making nature calls along the road, or outside our tent in the middle of the night, helping with putting up and striking the tent ... carrying her own gear, without ever complaining about the wind, the terrain, or the unrelenting daily riding routine. 

By trips end, she was a bit edgy, anxious to get home ... so set an inspired pace to get to the barn.

Before the trip, a friend had speculated we would return, either the best of friends, or never want to see each other again. For a while, we thought it might be the later, but fortunately, we were able to recover and end the trip in harmony.  

 FUND RAISER.  To date (July 19, 2007) we have received just short of $10,000 in receipts and pledges to go toward our Sudan relief efforts. We know Thuch is struggling to survive in Kenya and Sudan now, and look forward to his report on speciific projects that can use this financial support, when he returns. Before the, however, we will use some of our funds to send shipments of used shoes and school supplies to a trusted address and recipient. 

Then we plan to get a well project going, help fund the building of a clinic ... or what other projects Thuch might recommend. Every $$ we receive will go to the effort. Sharon and I have spent our own $$ on printing brochures, postage, etc. and received essential services (building/hosting website, designing brochure) from Sharon's workmates.

If you've read this far, we are sure you are at least a little impressed with our efforts to help souther Sudan villagers who have survived unfathomable hardships.

IF YOU CAN ADD FINANCIAL ASSISTANCE (tax deductible), please send your $$ to:

Lake Forest Park Rotary Charitable Foundation
Sudan Relief
PO Box 55983
Lake Forest Park, WA  98155

Bless you for your contributions...

 

   

 

    

Day 51, Thur. July 4 to HOME 9 (113 & 120 miles)

THE FINALE!!!!
As I got off to  a 6am start, I had no idea where Sharon was. A couple of unreturned calls and text message left me no closer to finding my partner. Finally, as I entered Leavenworth, I got the call from her. She had pushed on to Leavenworth the night before. She is one tough lady, went she gets her ire up. We reunited after her fine night on a heavenly bed at Icicle Inn while I dodged mosquitos, while balancing on a picnic table, shielding as best I could from the 8 lights left on in the shelter and constant train traffice nearby. 

Moon setting over Tumwater Canyon on the Wenatchee River.
On our sprint to the finish line.

 

We buzzed over Stevens Pass with little trouble. Only interrupted by a water break at Coles Corner and the rest area, still 20 miles from the summit AND one skinny dip (both of us) in the roadside stream (discreetly). This day would see the temperatures rise to 107 in nearby Ellensburg. Oddly, the heat is not bothering me, as it had back in the 95degree, 90% humidity days in Kentucky.

At the top of the pass, we expected a breeze to the finish line .... only 70 miles to go.  It was a breeze all right. A stiff breeze directly into our faces. After a first 7 miles of good coast, our remaining downhill was work. Finally reaching Monroe (49 miles from the top), we got a break as we headed a bit more south and escaped the worst winds. Son Colin, had hoped to meet us on our local Burke Gilman/Sammamish River trail for the final leg, but his voice messages on my phone went unplayed until we had missed his planned rendezvous.  The toughest hill in several days was the one leading to home from Kenmore.

Home sweet home ... and I control when the sprinklers come on!

Our journey ended today at 7pm. Actually, we need to ride on to Edmonds, WA, about 7 miles away, to touch our tires into the Pacific.  We "might" finish the journey ... but I think I'll let the bunns rest up good before I make my last symbolic voyage.

Day 50, Wed, Jul 4 to Monitor AND Leavenworth (125 & 138 miles)
SPLINTERED PAIR  After a belly bustin breakfast, we set up, windfree, intending to have an easy day ... only 62 miles to SunLakes, where we planned to relax in a state park I recall visiting several times as a youngster. The temps were really rising fast. Sharon consumed water quickly. On this holiday, the few towns we passed were closed of services. After trying Almira, a virtual ghosttown, for water without luck, I knew I had enough water for me ... and extra to share. As we approached the next quiet little berg, it seemed to me that a sidetrip off the main drag would also result in no water, no services. Sharon asked if I thought it looked like anything there. I said "didn't look like it to me" ... and kept pedallying, since I knew the next intersection near Coulee City , 7 miles away would deliver all services. As I continued on, Sharon pondered the possibility of finding "cold" water in this ghost town. I waited a while, then "mosied" down the road for the next 7 miles.

I waited at the intersection for her. But she was upset that I had gone on without her ... we've done that all trip long. Anyway, the "home" bug bit her hard in that 7 miles of separation between us.

This pic on Grandma's handlebar bag and a silly dispute about a water break, inspired her to race for the barn ... 250 miles from home!

 

Because as she passed me near Coulee City she indicated she'd just keep going ... across some very dry, hot, desolate badlands leaving Coulee City. She put her head down and pushed along the road toward Wenatchee. I had not yet stopped for my resupply, so pulled into a nice store where I hydrated to the point of saturation. Use the pop machine for free ice and water ... saving about $1.50 in bottled water expense.

When I exited, Sharon was long gone. Following her to the next intersection to Sun Lakes, I wasn't sure if she opted to go to the SunLakes as planned, or actually foolish enough to cross the toughest desert on the entire journey without resupply of food or water ... for a distance of 39 miles. 

You haven't experienced hot until laboring through this dry coulee west of Coulee City, en route to Waterville...a blast furnace! On a 130 mile day.

 I know how stubborn she is (and she really had no idea that the coming terrain and weather was brutal. I tried calling, but of course her cell phone was not working. So finding the last mini mart in 39 miles, I absolutely absorbed unbelieveable quantities of water. It was 1:30pm and already the thermometer was about to pop.  Problem/mistake was I did not get anything to eat.

"So I headed into the baking oven with heat just so intense. Shade no where for 39 miles. As I ascended to a plateau, then descended deep into a dry coulee that got much hotter at the bottom, I just tried to pace myself ... for survival. It was that bloody hot. I still didn't know if Sharon was ahead or behind...and I wasn't about to take off in hot pursuit and literally burn myself out.  So I survived the ordeal, finally reaching Waterville and a saving grocery store. Store checker advised that a woman rider had been thru the area over an hour earlier.  It had to be Sharon. She showed me on this day that she is tougher than tempered nails.  I assumed she was heading to Wenatchee for a motel room., since I had the tent. I followed the Columbia down to Wenatchee, then turned west toward Leavenworth, assuming I would be ahead of her at the start of the new day.

I pulled into a county park about 6 miles out of Wenatchee. The campground was sold out, but the attendant allowed me to just go set up behind the closed picnic . He advised to find shelter as the sprinklers would  be drenching thegrounds. So I ended up on a picnic table (I don't roll much) with a bandana as a night shade, as he left the shelter lights blazing.   

I ended my day with a long awaited skinny dip in the chilly Wenatchee River.

Day 49, Tue, Jul 3 to Davenport, WA  (115 miles)
Pedal to the metal.  Flying toward home. 

 

steeeeeep uphill start of day

 My favorite day of riding on the entire trip. This day had lots of wonderful features. One part of the route I would like to repeat. We left early, as usual, working our way up the rolling, winding roads on eastern shore of Lake Coeur d Alene. Reminds me so much of the Gulf Islands ... just substituting pine trees of the Inland Empire for our cedar and firs. Just homes and vacant land. No services for 29 miles along the shore to reunite (ikkk!) with I-90 for a final 9 miles into the town of Coeur d Alene. On holiday eve, the main street was hosting a kiddie's parade. We rolled thru town with all the little patriotic munchkins. You all must know of the reputation of this fine resort community. In our brief visit, the laudits seem very justified.

  southeast Lake Coeur d Alene

 
My son, Colin, bought a sailboat when I am away. Wonder if it is as ocean worthy as these miniatures.

entering Coeur d Alene to a kiddie 4th of July (on the 3rd) parade.

 
Proud grandma chats with proud mamma.

Joining the parade without paying the entry fee.

At this point, we picked up the Centennial bike/walker trail to Spokane. About 35 miles away. Trail sometime was a bit hard to find, but when found, the route was smooth and traffic free. Crossing into Washington we thoroughly enjoyed the route along the Spokane River.

Our 10th state. Home state of Washington.  Seems like home is just around the corner.

Gonzaga's bright new basketball arena. on the Centennial Trail, Spokane

Centennial Trail ends in Spokane's bustling city center.

Of all places I have seen along these 3,000+ miles, this was the one area I will return to. The Spokane River is a gem. On a hot day, running so clear and inviting. Rafters, tubers, fishermen, swimmers enjoying while I added the miles. The trail goes along the river for miles before finally entering Spokane downtown on the fringe of Gonzaga campus and finally concluding in the busy Spokane Riverfront Park.  Sharon almost found herself without a navigator as we found the route out of the city. I cruised thru a coupla yellow lights, while she exercised caution.  After passing thru several intersections and turns, I looked back to expect to see Sharon. GONE. Her cell phone wasn't working, so I started to worry how we would connect. We finally did, but not with out a bit of anguish.

We pushed on to the top of the heights near Spokane Airport for dinner. Sharon's tank was definitely on "E".  She needs her meals regularly. Two well stuffed cyclers with bellies full of Mexican chow, we pushed on into twilight along a very good road and shoulder into the heartland of eastern WA.

The rolling wheat and barley fields so precisely laid out and well taken care of, made us proud of our home state. The WA farms put others to shame. 32 miles after dinner to Davenport.

Sharon checked out motel A as I went ahead to compare prices in this small town. We settled on a "romantic" little B&B, Morgan Street B&B. A bit pricier than the basic motel, but the bed was oh so comfortable and a full breakfast, served at 6am was included. 

Day 48, Mon, Jul 2  to  Harrison, Lake Coeur d' Alene. (100miles)

Afternoon (July2) After leaving Wallace library, we made our way downhill into a stiff breeze further along the bike path. Eventually left civilization to meander along lovely streams, watching fishermen, observing birdlife over endless miles of wetlands/lily-pad covered lakes. Arrived Harrison, on southern shores of the Lake. City campground right on the water. I wasted no time diving into the the cool, refreshing lake, while Sharon sought a pay phone. Her cellphone lifeline was acting up ... and that makes Sharon "act up".

 

We are now en route. In Wallace ID. 33 miles from camp spot to top of pass and entry into our 9th state, Idaho.  Not a tough pass, compared to others, but not easy either, especially traveling right next to speeding traffic once again on I-90.

 into Idaho...and our home time zone.

With construction zones where only 1 lane of traffic each way, and no shoulders.
Just over the border we got on the very nice, well-known trail of the Coeur d Alenes.

 

 

72 miles of blacktopped, gradual grade running all the way down the mountain to Lake Coeur d' Alene. Passing thru revitalized mining towns of Wallace, Kellogg, etc. Hopefully we will arrive in the town of Coeur d' Alene tonight ... where I shall enjoy a long - awaited swim in clear lake waters. 

 We attempted to enter a rural saloon, but the sign on the door would have eliminated us on several accounts. We entered anyway. I promised to refrain from ticklin' the wenches.

  Harrison, on south Lake Coeur d Alene

At a reasonably consistent pace as the previous days, we should be home by this Friday. Without mechanical, physical or emotional breakdowns (probably on the edge on all 3 accounts)   

Day 47, Sun, July 1 to St Regis, MT.  118 miles
Ok, we smell the barn. We started later than we liked, but were on the road before the winds came up. I almost got run over trying to cross the road, because I trusted my shitty mirror and didn't look good enough. A 30ish cowboy in a big fancy truck reacted quick enough to avoid whacking me. He yelled something out the window as he passed by and I waved in form of apology. Apparently that wasn't enough, since he stopped his truck on the bike path a few miles up the road to tell me more ... or worse. I just smiled and waved at him as I went on by.

We pedalled merrily along a bike path for several more miles before being thrown out onto busy Hwy 93 into Missoula. Cars whizzing by constantly at close quarters. Finally into Missoula we got on a side arterial until finding a parallel route along I-90. Then onto I-90 for 100 miles to the Idaho border. Nothing pretty, appealling about the ride. The scenery was stupendous, but we dared not lift our eyes from the road ahead to make sure we didn't wander into the traffic, speed limit 75 mph. Winds were not kind again, even going NW, instead of North.  We plodded along until about 8:30p, before calling it quits in St Regis.  We tried to bum a camp spot behind a soda fountain, but employees were reluctant to grant us privileges without the boss's okay. So we found a public park just outside of town and a nice piece of grass. At 4am, the sprinklers came on. So we moved to shelter, quickly. 

 

Day 46, Sat, June 30 to Hamilton, MT.  97 miles
Another early start to beat the mosquitos (very fierce in this region) and winds. About 18 miles to Wisdom to a very classy Big Hole Restaurant for breakfast. We met another cross country cyclist, Paul from England. He quit his job as a civil engineer. Dave and Nick have been trying to catch Paul for several weeks. They see his name consistently in the biker logs at various businesses on the route and wanted to meet him. Just a wild hair. So they took a shortcut to Missoula in hopes of meeting Paul there. If only they'd stuck with us. Paul had heard recently that a coupla young desperados were tailing him.

 

We climbed a short bit out of Wisdom to a very important historical site, The Big Hole battlefield. Where the calvary attempted to corral the Nez Perce tribes of Chief Joseph to bring a few to justice and put others on a reduced reservation. The historical site does not favor the US Gov't or its army in the recount of the massacre that saw many warriors, women and children slain. There were army casualties ... and the tribe escaped to move further toward Canada in quest of freedom. They eventually conceded just a few miles from safety of Canada, caught in winter conditions with no food, blankets, etc.

One of the prettiest rides of our whole journey followed as we crossed into pine forests with bubbling streams, no cars and a modest grade up Chief Joseph pass to cross the Continental Divide for the 9th & 10th times. Then 50+ miles downhill to Hamilton, home of my aunt & uncle, Francis and Leola Dean and family. Winds were against us again, so no easy ride thru Sula, Darby and into Hamilton. They live only about 1/2 mile off the official route.


How nice to get a home cooked meal, sit on a couch, sleep in a bed and ride in a very nice car with leather seats. My aunt was in the hospital, recovering from surgery to replace both knees. Gives me the willies. She was hurting, but enjoyed our company. Then we went home to watch pro rodeo/bullriding with Uncle Francis ... a true cowboy ... but mostly retired. He drove us through parts of the  70,000 acre ranch he still helps out on.

In his spare time, Uncle Francis makes whirly-gigs. He must have 1,000 hanging from the rafters in his shop. He also enjoys being a never-die cowboy, watching pro rodeo on TV every Saturday night.

We both think this is one of the prettiest areas we have seen in our travels and worthy of consideration as a homestead for anyone who wants to escape the city. Although cost of living is going so high, since so many $$$ are moving into the area. It has been discovered. The local hospital is one of the finest anywhere. The hospital CEO explains he can recruit all the talent he wants, since the docs want to live here.

Cousin Jenny, her daughter Ocean, and cousin Ashley with two kids Chase and Haley and their dad Jordan, came by to say hi.  

My "favorite" Uncle, Francis.  And my only uncle.


Francis, Jenny, Ocean and Sharon ... dazzled by the early morning sunshine in Hamilton, MT... a gorgeous view out their front yard.

 

 

For those of you worried that Sharon would not be able to keep her feminine side...there is still red on those toenails.   And check out that sexy tan line!!

Day 45, June 29. to Jackson (hot springs) 96 miles
Early start (6:30a) after all " good byes" ... easy riding northbound to Twin Bridges (20 miles) for breakfast. Then head south before those nasty south winds start to blow. We covered the next 28 miles to Dillon before any significant wind. First Subway sandwich stop of the trip. Tasty.  About 4 miles south of Dillon we headed west over the first of two long (not steep) passes.  Head winds and cross winds made the rest of the day difficult. Slow going and long, high passes. On the downhill side we barely rolled heading on what should have been a lark. We had to go 55 miles without a water stop. We didn't prepare properly. We each had 3 water bottles which wasn't going to be enough.  Sharon stopped at bottom after crossing first pass to visit the only farm house reasonably close to the road. She met some ladies from Arlington, WA (40 miles from our home) who were there to help a friend with a cattle drive the next day.

Beaverhead. An important landmark used by native Americans and Lewis and Clark expedition. Sacajawea had told them that when they spotted this rock, would mean her people were close by. Expedition desperately needed to buy horses from the tribe to get across the mountains before winter snows.

Next time, we are going to hitch sharon's bike to a wagon, so I can ride in style.

I made it into Jackson, bone dry on water, fighting a nasty wind ... fortunately it wasn't too hot ... maybe about 85 with a bit of cloud cover. We stopped at Jackson with a Resort on the hot springs. We camped in the back yard, enjoyed privileges at the hot outdoor pool. The "hot" part was not too enticing, but it was wet and relaxing. Sharon just soaked her tired buns. I took the full body treatment.

 Camping mates in Jackson.

Day 44, June 28, Thur  Alder, MT via Ennis and Virginia City

Dave, riding thru the Madison River Valley. This is Big Sky country at its finest!

will be 100 miles today as we head north and west up the montana rockies.
Fire seemed to have subsided overnight. Still smoke in air. Slept in til 6am, had a quick, cold breakfast before heading up the road 22 miles for something more substantial. Winds neutral, fine road surface with wide shoulders. Who could ask for anything more? We picked up a tailwind after about 10 miles that lasted until mile 71. We were flying north and west up the Madison River Valley 

Stopped for breakfast at a resort cafe on the Madison River that caters mostly to fly fishermen/women. Then we flew up the road with the strongest tail winds on our journey. going 18mph up grades that usually drop us down to 6-8mph. That changed at Ennis, as we turned west toward Virginia City and our toughest climb in several weeks. Winds either in our face or strong side winds. We made it up the 7 mile climb and then down fast into Virginia City, where I now sit in the historic  library. Sharon had heard the road we traveled on this am, has now been closed due to outbreak of fire again. We made it out of Dodge in the nick of time.  

 
Another charming Western town, Ennis, MT.

 
The Madison River is one this country's prized fishing streams.

 
Climbing out of the river valley to the top of the hill, then down into Virginia City.

Overnight at KOA in Alder, MT. a group affair with 3 cops, Dave & Nick. A going away night as we'll all be traveling in different directions/speeds from now on.

 

Day 43, June 27, Wed  West Yellowstone
We are into Montana
5:45am start. Almost cold enough for frost. We stopped about 3 miles down the road to warm hands over a mud pot/geyser.

   

Natural hand (and body) warmers

WE'd hoped to beat the RV crowd and get an early start to see animals. WE beat the RVs but not so lucky with animals. PUlled into Old Faithful in time for breakfast...all you can eat. We did. Then hung around for old faithful's big deal. Nick and Dave didn't see the few animals we did. One good buffalo sighting. A few elk. A coyote. .... We cruised right by the other geyser attractions...so many people there, we just couldn't join the crowd. Most of the animals are easily sighted on the east side of the park by the Grand Canyon and Hayden Valley. 

 

Sharon is so excited to be at Old Faithful Inn after an all you can eat breakfast buffet. Waiting for the geyser to erupt. She woke up in time...

 

 
I spotted the buffalo. Stopped my bike, to create a nice traffic tie-up.

  Our 8th state. 2 to go.

We opted to spend tonight in West Yellowstone. Got a good deal on a biker site at a very nice campground in town, with full facilities. As I write this the neighboring fields are in a raging fire. Maybe our campsite gets evacuated tonight. More adventues!.  I'm off to the all you can eat pasta buffet to catch my comrades, Sharon, Nick and Dave. They've got a head start, but I'm a veteran big eater. 

  It might be a hot time in the old town tonight!!!
A nearby resort area was just a few miles from West Yellowstone. The road we needed to travel was in jeopardy of being closed. Water tankers flew overhead constantly.